Adventure in New Mexico, Colorado, & Area 51
September 2004
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Third day at Ouray Colorado: After failing to get over some of the more challenging passes yesterday, we decided to try crossing Cinnamon Pass today. Even though it is one of the higher passes it is far from the hardest according to Wells’ book Guide to Colorado Backroads & 4-Wheel Drive Trails. By the way, this book is a must before heading out onto the mountain backroads. One word of warning for bikers ….. a moderate jeep trail can be most difficult for dual sports.

We left Ouray taking US 550 south into Silverton. This is a good motorcycle road with both tight twisties and some good sweepers. We stopped on Main street in Silverton to pick-up the always needed trinkets. Then we headed north on the improved gravel road SR 110A into the mountains. We saw a sign and one ski lift for Silverton Mountain, a rather unique winter ski resort which advertises “fresh uncut lines in a world of chop and bump fields .. mind blowing terrain”. This extreme skiing with a guide is for expert and advanced skiers/snowboarders only. There are lots of trees, rocky chutes, and 55 degree slopes. See more at www.silvertonmountain.com We also saw strange man made things on top of a few mountains too, possibly old mining ruins which are quite common in the area.

The road stayed improved and followed northward Cement Creek which was red with iron or other minerals (cinnamon color). At a major intersection called Gladstone on the USGS map there was some sort of mining plant (Gold King Mine). Here, at 10,453 feet elevation, we headed up a narrow steep road to the left that was labeled “Hurricane, Corkscrew, California Pass”. We were looking for Cinnamon Pass, but it was not signed here. We met an open tour van with half a dozen frozen tourists huddled together with hair a-blowing and looking like they’d rather be back at the motel. The driver/tour guide indicated that we were on the right road and gunned the van downhill toward Silverton.

The road leveled out and then began to climb again with some loose rocks but nothing too difficult for us to get over. You only had a hard time when you stopped on a steep grade. Suddenly we were at Hurricane Pass, elevation 12,470 feet, with spots of snow all around us. It was windy, cool, and clear. Nancy was thrilled to finally make it to a real Colorado mountain top.

We then headed down and came to one sharp, muddy, steep switch back, but amazingly we both made the sharp turn and climb easily. We then climbed to California Pass where about a dozen jeeps driven by senior citizens were inconsiderately blocking the small parking area and the road. Somehow we found a level parking spot amongst the jeeps, took one quick picture, grabbed a swig of drink, and hurried to get in front of the caravan descending to Animas Junction.

At Animas Junction there were ruins of a fairly good sized mining town and the intersection for Cinnamon and Engineer passes. Engineer heads out north from here and Cinnamon heads east. We took a sharp switchback and climbed to Cinnamon Pass, elevation 12,640 feet, where we met another dual sport rider from Minnesota. This guy was some kind of ironman having ridden his KTM all the way.

From here the road descended with a series of very sharp steep switchbacks which had to be taken carefully and slowly. The road then became forested and finally followed the scenic deep Gunnison River Valley to Lake San Cristobal. This crystal blue mountain lake was formed naturally when the narrow valley was plugged by a large landslide centuries ago.

We had lunch at Poker Annies in Lake City and took a quick excursion on paved SR 149 south through Slumgullion Pass with some 11 miles of decent twisties. Heading back north we made a quick stop for a shot of espresso in the historic district of Lake City just a block west of the main drag. Take time to check out this old western town.

We then headed north on SR 149 and took a high speed (70 mph) well-maintained gravel short cut CR 26 for 15.4 miles which brought us to US 52 for a fast and windy trip back to Montrose and south on US 550 to Ouray.

copyright 2004